(in). Maison Martin Margiela Me

20. The Exhibition. Somerset House. London

I finally made it

In my eyes- Maison Martin Margiela is-
A completely perfectly balanced clash between D.I.Y spontaneity and beautifully thought through construction.
An inventiveness that has resulted in what can only be described as a timeless aesthetic.
A rejection of trend. A rejection of celebrity culture and in fact, a rejection to all branding in the traditional sense.

Highlights

'S/S 06 Dress with photographic print of sequined retro evening dress'
cartoonish couture

'A/W 2001-2002 Woolen fabric pressed on a jacket, in such a way that the print of buttons, collar and pockets is created in the fabric'
Imitation, covering, diguising, imprinting, reinventing

A personal wardrobe short films of faithful customers around the world including a doctor from Antwerp to a designer from London, a representation of the truly diverse spectrum of customer.

The Birthday Show (full length catwalk show from the house's 20th anniversary Summer 2009 collection)
The type of absurd surrealism that somehow works without appearing humorous. The hair jacket, in which the model appears to have two floating heads instead of shoulders. In true Margiela style the models faces were concealed, they are not there to be idols. This anonymity means that of course, the focal point never slips from the clothes that Maison Martin Margiela have chosen so carefully to present. Concluding in an outcome that holds a dreamlike factor-

that bizarre part of a dream...you are aware that someone is present but in the morning, find it difficult to recall any distinguisable facial features





Tabi- One of Margiela's most iconic objects- inspired by Japanese tabi- split toe and platformed.


Reconstruction-top made from gloves


Tailored to perfection

(in). Share

Clothes to share, clothes for all, what's mine is yours. Come share with me...


'Rooted in forward dreaming and unity, 'share' represents an idea of unisex dressing for the future. Interchangeable pieces, adjustable for both the male and female figure. Potentially, it is quite possible that one day a couple will share the same wardrobe..'













'Hey Boy, Hey Girl'
Modern androgyny concerns the flowing between opposites. A new unisex.

His. Hers. She. He. Him. Her. We. Blend.

Not wishing to dilute either the masculine or feminine form, the garments are a collages juxtaposition.
The classic tailoring of traditional unisex pieces next to softer, asymmetrical draping.

You dressing like me. Me dressing like you. Garments to be customised, accessorised, feminised, masculinised...

(in). Graduation

My final graduate pieces

'Weightless shadow. Light, dark and somewhere in between...'
Eva O'Reilly 2010

(in). Primary

(in) Mud

There is no doubt that the summer music festival has seemingly been touched with the ever influential wrath of celebrity, conceiving a new breed of festival goer. This entwinement of high fashion and festival is a rather modern phenomenon and if it had a catchphrase I’d like to suggest that it would probably be something along the lines of- ‘a little less mud bath a little more catwalk’. If you do let mud enter into the equation, then let it be splattered up your toned, sun kissed thigh in a way that hints at Kate and Pete circa 2005.


Doherty and Moss 2005. The summer of too many Trilby hats and too many boney adolescent knees protruding under skinny jeans. The media highlight for the couple? Glastonbury festival of course.

You’d be lying if you said after seeing Kate in that gold mini dress, those shiny black pvc trousers, carrying the 'it bag-du-jour', that ‘i want to be her!’ flashed through your mind at an unpleasantly and downright unhealthy fast pace. Note, this was where the festival began its metamorphosis into catwalk. And so the celebrity gates were gapingly wide open- Daisy Lowe, Alexa Chung, and more Geldof sisters than you can shake a stick at. It really all boils down to the question; If you can get Jimmy Choo Hunter wellies, why wouldn’t you?


2009 Pixie Geldof and Jo Wiley sport Jimmy Choo Hunters, 40 years later and a slight deterrent from Life magazines coverage of Woodstock 1969.

Once again, perhaps poor Kate isn’t so much the brain, but merely the poster girl of ‘fashionable festival’. Lucky us, because we have been catered for. Trundle into town and we are spoilt for choice, because come May, the shelves of the British high street are stocked choc a bloc for the ‘festival season’. The festival season has become as much a part of the fashion calender as party wear, or holiday attire. Case in point, this Spring/ Summer, Topshop state they have pushed the ‘go global trend’. Designed for the ‘eclectic techno traveller’, the brand go on to state they ‘can’t wait for the festival season to bust out our crazy knits, combats and keffiyeh scarf’. All making an appearance at a store near you, at your local festival, on the girl sleeping in the ‘too cute its kitsch and kitsch is cool so that’s ok’ Cath Kidson tent next to yours. Festival is an excuse to consume, an excuse for new outfits and as much as a headache to decide what to wear for as a wedding.

It’s official and has been for a while, camping is damn chic, festivals are the place to be seen. The fashion industry has fed, contributed to, or even invented this appetite for glamour within the modern day music festival. Vogue aka the fashion bible, issues a ‘best dressed at Glastonbury’ list every August, with the predictable concoction of London socialites you may/ may not have heard of, chirpy fresh faced models and the coolest kids from the most popular art school band of the moment.
All easily achieving what most can't - that achingly sexy ‘i’ve just rolled out of bed/tent’ hair whilst living in an actual field.


Corrine Day's story for Vogue. Preened festival chic.

No grass stains, no spilt cider, no mud.
(no fun)

So with all that in mind, here's some of the highlights from the 'best dressed' lists of Coachella 2010...........

(in). Down the Garden

The high street have pushed ethical fashion into the desirable and also affordable category.
At last.

H&M's 'Garden collection' is made entirely out of sustainable materials

Organic cotton is cotton that has been grown without the use of hazardous chemicals.
Organic linen is linen that has been grown without the use of hazardous chemicals.
Recycled polyester is polyester made from PET-bottles or textile waste.
Tencel is silky, renewable material produced with minimal environmental impact.

'inspired by chlorophyll-green gardens, sundrenched landscapes and even 70s hippie chic flower-power'

Perfect for:garden parties, green parties, tea parties, cocktail parties, speeding up the summer and most of all, feeling ethically smug.

(in). LDN got the love

Meadham Kirchhoff
You've been dragged through your dressing up box backwards.
veils. embellishment by the bucket load. paper crowns. slippers and socks. draping. colour fuscia, red, purple, beautiful!
Such a treat for the eyes.





Paul Smith
The most fabulous red boots.
punk inspired rips. layered chiffon. mismatched florals. super delicate knit. plastic fantastic.





Christopher Kane
Shouldn't work, but of course, it does.
PVC. black leather. Kane short but not skimpy. folky floral embroidery. lace. lace. lace.

(in). LDN got the love

London Fashion Week A/W 10/11

Gems from the first few days. I'm very much enjoying the live coverage of the shows, i expect it to be the only chance to grace the front row whilst wearing your pajamas.

Charles Anastase (20/2/2010)
A mixed bag of a collection, in the best sense: felted wools, beautiful peacock blue highlight colour, layered chinese silk trousers. Entitled Winter garden the collection was inspired by the strange occurrence that summer fruits and exotic flowers are available even in the depths of winter. A nod to the issue of climate change in the form of a painted skull on one of the model's faces.




TopShop Unique (20/2/2010)
I always pay particular notice to Unique because, quite frankly, it's the only collection that sits somewhere within the student budget. Every element of the show had wit, charm and just enough chaos. A ferrel- woodland nymph- boy scout- 'where the wild things are' cocktail. Reinvented country classics, over sized blanket-style coats, longer length chiffon wonders accessorized with super sized mittens and Emma Cook animal hats.




Mary Katrantzou (20/2/2010)
Lace, jewels, medals and sashes. Katrantzou's juxtaposition of elaborate rococo decoration and digital printing make for a collection that has broken the trend for the minimalist, geometric print that in the past, London has been characterised by.

(in). McQueen forever.

I just found out the sad news that Lee McQueen has passed away. Such a shock and such a tragedy.

I remember visiting the 'radical fashion' exhibition at the V&A which featured some McQueen's earlier work. I was thirteen and utterly enthralled by the drama of it all, the label has been a constant source of inspiration ever since.
McQueen was an innovator and a rebel, pushing boundaries and excluding no one from his work.

(in). Everyone in suits.